Arriving in Armenia

September 19, 2012

Abstract or Cliff Notes for my son, Curt: I am here.  I am fine.  I like it here; the only concerns are traffic and earthquakes!  It’s interesting.  The girls are pretty!

I’ve been in Armenia almost a week now.  I traveled by Air France and arrived in Yerevan without much sleep.  Even though the plane was comfortable it is difficult sleeping with so many people being close to you.  I’m always afraid that I will fall asleep in lean on someone’s shoulder on something.  It’s happened to me before; someone was sleeping on me.  Since the person next to me was an American surgeon and rather uptight, that probably wouldn’t have been the best thing in the world!  When I arrived in Paris I spent about four hours there reading and waiting for the next plane. 

I arrived in Yerevan that afternoon and was taken to my hotel by a scheduled travel agent.  He waited for about 15 minutes for two other people I had noticed on the plane that definitely looked American.  When I asked them what they were doing in Armenia, they looked at each other and didn’t respond.  I had not yet heard about the Libyan ambassador being killed so didn’t know why they might have been in this part of the world.  They looked to be connected to the armed forces, and now I can say they were probably Marines sent as extra guards for the Embassy.  I thanked them for being there in whatever capacity they were serving in. They talked of their experiences in Afghanistan and Iraq, said they had been to Armenia before and told me to watch out for the fresh vegetables that had made all their group sick on the last trip.  Later Hasmik from the Embassy told me she doubted it was the fresh fruit, but probably too much of the Russian Vodka!

On the way from the airport I saw buildings that were old and in disrepair and many casinos.  I was told by the Marines that the casinos were built by the Russian Mafia and Saudis who left after finishing their dirty work.  It always amazes me how poor people can go to casinos.  Approaching the center of the city, I saw areas that were quite beautiful made from odd colored blocks of orange and many flowers and wide streets.  The center of Yerevan is actually prettier than Sofia, Bulgaria and other Eastern European cities I have visited, but the outskirts are much more worn and in disrepair.  The people look very much like Bulgarian and Turkish people with dark hair and dark eyes and the ones that you see who look differently usually have some other background besides Armenian like Ukrainian. 

I was taken to my hotel, the Golden Tulip, which I believe is a European chain.  It looks similar to a Holiday Inn Garden Hotel with the whole middle being open and plants hanging down and glass elevators.  The hotel had all the expected amenities like a spa and restaurant, wifi, etc.  Several people worked at the front desk and every time you go in and out, a door man opens the door for you.  That seemed exceptionally nice for a moderately priced hotel, but then things in Armenia are cheap. 

The next day I purchased a new telephone and was taken to the Embassy for a briefing.  Upon entering the Embassy gates I turned over my phone, any liquids, flashlights etc. from my purse to the guard before entering and walked through a metal detector.  We then walked to the front door of the Embassy and went to the Marine station to receive an Embassy pass.  While standing there, the Ambassador walked through and my Embassy contact greeted him.  Hasmik said he was out and about Armenia quiet a lot and didn’t spend all of his time in the office. 

The Security Officer at the Embassy told me crime was quite low in Armenia and not to be afraid of that, but that traffic was a problem with riding in cars, buses, and crossing the street.  The drivers here are the most aggressive I’ve ever seen!  They play Russian roulette on the street passing cars!  I’m trying to avoid getting in anything that looks like an automobile!

The other concern he told me to be aware of was earthquakes.  Funny, while checking out the security concerns of coming here I looked at the political situation and the insect/disease problem; I never considered things like earthquakes.  So what do you do to prepare for an earthquake?  He told me to have close at hand a bag packed with a change of clothes and my passport. 

I also met with the Cultural Affairs Officer and was introduced to the Public Affairs Officer. They talked about Armenia, my job here and the relationships with the surrounding countries. 

I suppose you are aware that Armenia is surrounded by Georgia, Turkey, Iran, and Azerbaijan.  Of these countries, Turkey and Azerbaijan do not have a good relationship with Armenia.  With Turkey it’s because of the genocide of Armenians that happened in the early 1900’s.  I’ve purchased a book about this that I haven’t read yet. With Azerbaijan there is a land dispute of an area called Nagorno Karabakh which both countries think is theirs.   Armenia has a very good relationship with Georgia which is a transitioning country said to be the next Los Vegas of Eastern Europe because of its position on the Black Sea and the only open border with Armenia.  They also have a good relationship with Iran probably as a matter of necessity because all of their imports and exports go through Iran including their natural gas pipeline.  Armenia is a landlocked country and the only Christian country I this region except for Georgia.  They also have a good relationship with Russia as a country of the former Soviet Union with no animosities. 

I am now in Vanadzor and will write about that later so this doesn’t get too long.  It’s very pleasant and peaceful, and I am enjoying myself.  I need to study for my lessons now.